Other than Shexian, there is another town nearby Tunxi which is worth visiting, i.e. Hongcun. This place is much further from Tunxi thought, taking two hours by bus, but the sights are definitely worth the efforts. Just from the fact that this is the number one choice for aspiring artists in China, you can imagine how beautiful this place is. This exquisite old village is also by far, my favorite place in China.
Hongcun and Shexian are pretty similar to a certain extent, both homes of the Hui people. However, Hongcun has finer examples of Hui housing of the two. Most importantly, it is not a recreated tourist site, but that of a real village, with people still living in their ancestral homes that are mostly 100 or 200 years old. Most of the families staying here take on the surname Wang. The unique part of this village is that you can find a few ponds, which makes for a great picture especially if it is a sunny day.
You can find many villagers selling local snacks or souvenirs or bamboo carvings from their own doorsteps. Some cash in on the tourist crowd by converting their ancestral homes into inns or restaurants. Others simply open their doors for visitors free of charge, allowing tourists a glimpse of the history of this place. Since this are homes of the Hui people, the furniture or decorations found in the houses are naturally pretty similar to those found in Shexian.
There is a big pond right smack in the middle of the village, which the villagers used as a washing point. Sometimes you can find geese waddling in it too.
There is a drainage system running through the whole village. The water found in these drains is not dirty like normal drains though. The water comes from natural springs and in olden times, villagers used to draw water from these drains for all purposes. Nowadays, the water in the drains is mostly used for washing clothes and cutlery, or for pets.
The people here are real friendly too. I just stopped by one of the “shops” to take a look at the bamboo carved paintings for no longer than 10 seconds, when the friendly shop owner invited me into his house for a look. Even though I made it clear right from the start that I won’t be buying anything, the guy still invited me in and allowed me to take pictures of his place and his cute cat. We chatted for more than an hour before he allowed me to leave.
The best time to visit Hongcun is actually in the afternoon, when most of the tourist crowd are gone. Although you still find groups of tourists after lunch, at least you won’t be bumping into them at every corner like in the morning. After 3pm or so, you will find groups of art students clutching their painting tools heading for the village, looking for a good spot to do their paintings. Apparently, this place is so famous that it even attracts foreign art students from as far as Europe. And it is thanks to these students that prices of commodities here are kept low, unlike other touristy places, giving you one more reason to make a stop at this village, as long as you are in Huangshan area.
The area surrounding the old town is more modern and does not have lovely old buildings like those seen earlier, but is nonetheless charming in its own way. ~wei


1 comment:
有疑问:村民用沟渠里的泉水洗碗碟,衣服,那不是会污染泉水吗?
竹凳子似曾相识!好怀念。。。
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